Going to an onsen with tattoos

This is the single most common reason a trip to a hot spring goes wrong, and it is worth understanding before you are standing at the front desk.

Why the rule exists

The ban is not about art. Tattoos in Japan carried an association with organised crime, and public baths adopted blanket no-tattoo rules to keep that clientele out. The association has faded and the rules have not kept pace, so you meet a policy written for somebody else.

Four ways around it

Ask before you pay

Policy is set per property, and it changes. The sentence that gets you a straight answer is: 入れ墨がありますが、入浴できますか? — "I have a tattoo, may I bathe?" Ask when you book, not when you arrive.

A private open-air bath in your own room removes the problem entirely. In Japan these are called 露天風呂付き客室, and they are far more common than most visitors realise.